Despite being one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, Utrecht feels like someone’s younger sister. Small, and as if constantly in search of a hand to hold, lest she gets lost.

What’s the opposite of majestic? Not mundane. Because Utrecht isn’t mundane; it’s understated–the ancient cathedral shoots up from the middle of the city, shops higgledy-piggledy braced against it. Other places hide behind bars and gates; Utrecht happens right in front of you.

The city looks like a picture book and also has a big mall. Which, ironically, makes me feel comfortable, a byproduct of my Manileña roots. But here, the mall is off to the side, kept with the train station. As if there’s a tinge of embarrassment. Leave the mundane out of the frame; here we bring the majestic to the everyday. 

It’s a walk to the center, which has a line that violates the city, showing you the old Roman fortification. The Cathedral dates to the middle ages. The university has been here since 1636. 

Roman walls? We’ve been sleeping on Utrecht. 

The old town is a picture book of river banks and canals. The bridges connect shops where you can buy luxury boxer shorts, sequined jumpsuits, and panty hose. People brunch in the squares. There is an Urban Outfitters hidden quietly among the local shops and posh eyewear boutiques.

From time to time, I see a bachelorette party saunter by in their “finery”. They might be tacky, but they know the score. They skipped Amsterdam and found a place older and just as storied. These are the ones that knew better and thought further than “wouldn’t the Netherlands be fun?”

Utrecht sits in the middle of the country. All roads still lead here to a certain degree. Despite being overtaken by Amsterdam during the Dutch Golden age, Utrecht is secretly thriving.

Walking through the streets, I see boats, prim boutiques, restaurants. A black magic vintage store sits in an old Apotek, its art nouveau facade declaring history and importance. 

Even the outskirts of Utrecht are beautiful. Where strip malls and Ikea should be are “projects”, high rises done the Dutch way. Well. There are parks and green spaces woven through the rows of low cost housing. The emerald canals are immaculately kept. Housing was built here to tempt people away from the cramped center. And it worked.

Because of its age, Utrecht feels a little like a mouth with too many teeth in it. There are so many different shades of Utrecht all pushed up against each other, crowded into such a small space. 

Utrecht was SPQR. 

Then it was Catholic.

Then it was Protestant.

It was part of the establishment of the united states of the Netherlands and then it backed away from the world stage. Like Den Haag, it sacrificed Amsterdam. It quietly retreated into its identity “a university town”. Don’t be fooled. 

The cobblestones eat at my heels as we walk in the sunshine. It’s beautiful out and the green jewel of a place is crowded with Dutch people. Unlike Den Haag and Amsterdam, you don’t hear as much English on the streets. People are visibly dressed down. There are tons of families out on this rare gorgeous day.

Around me, my fellow travellers marvel at the age of the city and its many facets and faces. Thousands of years of having a there, here. Waves of religion washed through the city, from Catholic to calvinist. 

I sit and eat my ice cream and think: Santo Tomas is 20 years older than Utrecht University. I smile and say nothing.